BASELWORLD 2015 -height of Horology

Patek Philippe

Split-Seconds Chronograph Ref. 5370

As a mechanism that measures intermediate times while continuing to time an ongoing interval, the split-seconds chronograph has long been, for collectors, one of the most coveted among Patek Philippe’s specialities. The new Ref. 5370 marks the debut of the CHR 29-535 PS calibre in its purest form, with no additional complications. It also introduces a “double time” device, namely two pushers for the basic chronograph functions and a pusher in the crown to start and stop the split-seconds hand. While celebrating tradition with its architecture, manual winding, two column wheels and horizontal clutch, this is very much a chronograph for the twenty-first century, thanks to the many patented optimisations. The sumptuous black enamel dial promises perfect legibility, enhanced by the platinum case. The prestigious Patek Philippe Seal crowns the whole.

Movement

Mechanical hand-wound, CHR 29-535 PS calibre, 312 parts, 34 jewels, 28,800 vib/h, Gyromax® balance, Breguet balance spring, between 55 and 65 hours of power reserve

Functions

Hours, minutes, seconds, split-seconds chronograph

Case

950 platinum, 41 mm Interchangeable sapphire crystal and solid platinum backs Water-resistant to 30 metres (3 bar/100 ft)

Dial

White gold with black enamel 18K white gold applied Breguet hands

Bracelet/strap

Alligator with 950 platinum folding clasp

TAG Heuer

Monaco V4 Phantom

Totally black. Stylish. Uncompromising. Virtually a stealth watch. The Monaco V4 Phantom debuts an innovative case made entirely from Carbon Matrix Composite (CMC), as are the movement’s seven bridges. Using a special technique, the carbon fibres are positioned in the required direction in the mould, then microblasted to produce a particularly stylish “matt black vertical brushed” effect. This command of futuristic materials echoes the avant-garde construction of the famous V4 movement, with micro-belts cut with microscopic teeth and a linear mass which, rather than rotating, runs along a straight track on ball bearings. The dial, which plays on different intensities of black with touches of colour from the jewels, adds to the watch’s sharp design. TAG Heuer is renowned for its innovative spirit and savoir-faire, and this watch has both.

Movement

Mechanical automatic, 268 parts, 28,800 vib/h, seven Carbon Matrix Composite bridges, microblasted plate, hour-markers and screws with Titanium Carbide Coating, black micro-belts in viscoplastic polyamide, 42-hour power reserve

Functions

Hours, minutes, seconds

Case

Carbon Matrix Composite, 41 x 41 mm

Dial

Small seconds at 4 o’clock Hands coated with anthracite grey SuperLuminova™

Bracelet/strap

Matt black alligator with titanium folding clasp

Antoine Preziuso

Tourbillon of Tourbillons

Often considered the supreme horological complication, the tourbillon remains a constant source of fascination. Antoine Preziuso has made it a speciality and now introduces a stunning composition protected by three patents. Working with his son Florian, the independent master-watchmaker has placed three tourbillon carriages on a rotating platform and this association endows the watch with unique precision in all wearing positions. Each of the three tourbillons performs a complete rotation around its axis in one minute, while the entire rotating platform, driven by an original triple planetary differential, requires just 10 minutes to make a complete revolution, with the tourbillons forming a triangle in the centre. A token of ultimate precision, the frequencies of the three regulating organs are attuned to each other by the physical proximity of the tourbillons oscillating at a stable frequency. Limited edition of five for 2015.

Movement

Mechanical hand-wound Manufacture Antoine Preziuso AFP-TTR-3X calibre, twin parallel-mounted barrels, 3 “planetary satellite” tourbillons, 65 jewels, frequency of 3 x 21,600 vib/h, minimum 48-hour power reserve

Functions

Hours, minutes

Case

“Power” assembly in steel, 18K pink gold and grade 5 titanium, 45 mm Bezels screwed by 8 lateral pillars in 18K pink gold and 24 titanium “Power” screws Anti-reflective sapphire crystals

Dial

Hours and minutes in the centre of the rotating platform

Bracelet/strap

Full grain crocodile leather

HYT

H3

HYT deconstructs time with the H3 then reassembles it around its founding principle of two bellows that inject fluid into a capillary tube that advances with the hours. The H3’s objective is to show hours on a linear display. This was the starting-point for a new movement, developed with Audemars Piguet Renaud & Papi, that ensures the smooth flow of the hours along this linear display. The result is a watch without hands and with no noon. HYT has imagined a rotating, four-sided dial, positioned alongside the hour tube. Each of these sides has six one-hour graduations for a total 24 hours. At the end of each six-hour period, the hour marker makes a retrograde movement during which the dial makes a controlled rotation. Minutes are also counted on a linear display by an articulated, retrograde double arm that sweeps a scale. 25-piece limited series.

Movement

Mechanical hand-wound, exclusive HYT calibre, 53 jewels, 21,600 vib/h, titanium bridges with anthracite PVD treatment, twin barrels, 170-hour power reserve

Functions

Retrograde fluid hours, retrograde minutes, power-reserve indicator, crown position indicator (H-N-R), pusher to rotate the hours

Case

Titanium with anthracite PVD treatment and platinum, 62 x 41 mm Domed anti-reflective sapphire crystal Open back

Dial

Aluminium for the hours, sapphire crystal for the minutes

Bracelet/strap

Black alligator, titanium folding clasp with anthracite PVD treatment

Christophe Claret

Allegro

After Adagio and Soprano, Christophe Claret presents Allegro, his latest musical score. This haute horlogerie watch marries the minute repeater, that most delightful of complications, with useful functions: GMT, large date, small seconds and day/night indication. All within a movement that has been fully reworked, from plate to bridges and even the flywheel. Not forgetting the heart of the movement, with a completely new regulating organ that has been designed and manufactured in-house. The striking mechanism is seen through an opening in the sapphire dial, while the transparent back affords a clear view of the movement architecture. Always the maestro of musical complications, Christophe Claret has devoted particular care to the cathedral gongs. Exquisitely made, they benefit from a system that prevents excessive vibration to eliminate any undesirable buzzing sound. This is a patented invention, as is the large date and the index-assembly adjustment. Each version is proposed as a 20-piece limited series.

Movement

Mechanical hand-wound, ALG89 calibre, 520 parts, 39 jewels, 21,600 vib/h, single barrel, stepped Charles X bridges, approximately 60-hour power reserve

Functions

Hours, minutes, seconds, hour, quarter and minute repeater, date, GMT with day/night indication

Case

18K pink gold or 18K white gold and grade 5 titanium with anthracite PVD treatment, 45 mm Water-resistant to 30 metres (3 bar/100 ft)

Dial

Smoked sapphire or sapphire with matt slate-grey metallisation

Bracelet/strap

Alligator

Bvlgari

Diagono Magnesium

As ever well ahead of its times, Bvlgari combines cutting-edge materials in giving life to a pioneering urban timepiece: Diagono Magnesium. Its remarkably light and impressively sturdy case middle is made from two materials notably used in the space industry: magnesium and PEEK, a polymer capable of withstanding the most extreme conditions. The bezel engraved with the double Bvlgari logo is made of ceramic, while the dial features a “Motorlac” coating, as does the surface of the case middle. This lacquer developed by Bvlgari serves twin decorative and protective roles. It is not only capable of withstanding extreme temperatures or variations in the dilatation of materials, but also enables daringly colourful and grainy-textured effects. The Diagono Magnesium comes in a choice of four colours: anthracite, chestnut brown, silver-toned and blue.

Movement

Mechanical autuomatic, 28,800 vib/h, 42-hour power reserve

Functions

Hours, minutes, seconds, date

Case

Steel, 41 mm Case middle in magnesium and PEEK, surface coated with anthracite, chestnut brown, silver-toned or blue Motorlac. Ceramic bezel engarved with the double Bvlgari logo. Black PVD-coated back.

Dial

Coated Motorlac matching the case middle: anthracite, chestnut brown, silver-toned our blue

Bracelet/strap

Vulcanised rubber with PEEK pin buckle

Breitling

Galactic Unitime SleekT

Breitling introduces a double revolution with this new model. A technical breakthrough first of all, with the new in-house worldtime B35 calibre boasting standout user friendliness. Simply pulling out the crown and turning it one way or the other in one-hour increments enables the user to correct all the dial indications in one smooth move, complete with automatic adjustment of the date to local time, in both directions. To ensure this unprecedented functionality, Breitling has developed two patented innovations concerning the differential system and the liaison between the city disk and the movement. The latter is protected by two other patents relating to the winding and time-setting mechanisms. The second revolution is of an aesthetic nature, with a smooth brand-new bezel in tungsten carbide, an ultra-resistant high-tech material featuring an original colour striking a subtle contrast with the polished steel.

Movement

Mechanical automatic, Manufacture Breitling calibre B35, chronometer certified by the COSC, 56 jewels, 28,800 vib/h, more than 70-hour power reserve

Functions

Hours, minutes, seconds, worldtime, date

Case

Steel, 44 mm Tungsten carbide bezel Cambered sapphire crystal, glareproofed on both sides Water-resistant to 100 metres (10 bar/330 ft)

Dial

Antarctica white or Trophy black

Bracelet/strap

Pilot

Girard-Perregaux

Neo-Tourbillon with Three Bridges

The Neo-Tourbillon with Three Bridges, a contemporary interpretation of the Esmeralda created by Girard-Perregaux in the 19th century, offers a perfect alliance between history, tradition and innovation. The iconic three bridges are made of sandblasted, black PVD-treated titanium. Accentuating these depth effects, the mainplate is also sandblasted and black PVD-treated to focus perspective lines and light towards the centre forming a succession of light grey circles. As if to defy gravity, the generous titanium tourbillon carriage weights only 0.25 grams, despite its 80 parts. Its fascinating dance is magnified by a remarkably domed “box-type” sapphire crystal enabling the DLC-treated titanium case to do without a bezel.

Movement

Mechanical automatic GP09400-0002 calibre, titanium tourbillon carriage and black PVD-treated bridges, 18K white gold rotor, adjustable balance wheel, balance-spring with Phillips terminal curve, 245 parts, hand chamfering, 21,600 vib/h, 60-hour power reserve

Functions

Hours, minutes, small seconds on the tourbillon

Case

Fabergé

Summer in Provence

The latest creation from the Fabergé ateliers, the Haute Joaillerie Summer in Provence watch was designed like a wreath of flowers woven on a warm afternoon in the south of France. Forming a fascinating interlacing pattern of precious ribbons, diamonds and emeralds mingle with colourful fine stones and dainty flowers individually sculpted in hard stone. Two small supple enamel bands undulate over the creation and stamp it with the Fabergé signature. Others graced with snow-set precious stones wind over the dial to embrace the case. The wrist is gently encircled by a bracelet composed of diamonds set like the beads on a necklace, with a central garland of tiny flowers winding its away along its entire length. A Manufacture-made calibre beats at the heart of this creation, giving life to an exquisitely poetic symphony of colours. Five-piece limited series.

Movement

Mechanical automatic 3000 calibre, 28,800 vib/H, 18K gold oscillating weight hand-engraved and set with 14 diamonds (0.03 cts), 50-hour power reserve

Case

18K white gold, 37 mm 374 diamonds, 17 Paraiba tourmalines, 10 emeralds (2.81 cts) Domed sapphire crystal and caseback, with anti-reflective treatment front and back

Dial

18K white gold 332 diamonds, 19 Paraiba tourmalines, 15 emeralds (1.87 cts) Mother-of-pearl flowers Chrysoprase leaves

Bracelet/strap

18K white gold 93 closed-set diamonds, 114 diamonds set on rings, 10 emeralds (10.58 cts) Mother-of-pearl flowers Chrysoprase leaves

Black DLC-coated titanium, 45 mm Ultra-domed “box-type” sapphire crystal Sapphire crystal caseback Water-resistant to 30 metres (3 bar / 100 ft)

Bracelet/strap

Hand-sewn black alligator leather with black ceramic clasp and black PVD-treated titanium blades

Eberhard

Tazio Nuvolari 336

In 1935, the driver Tazio Nuvolari went down in the motorsports history books by beating the speed record at the wheel of his Alfa Romeo 16C, hitting peak speeds of 336 km/h on the Florence-Mare highway. Eberhard & Co. is commemorating this feat with a timepiece available in a limited edition of 336 watches, a nod to the speed reached by the legendary champion on those Italian roads. Destined to become a collector’s item among devotees of fine horological and automobile mechanisms, the watch features a dual-time display ensuring perfect readability at 6 o’clock. The functions are driven by an automatic movement beating at the heart of a steel case topped by a ceramic bezel. The latter is entirely CNC-machined and creates spectacular 3D effects when slanted, thereby emphasising the unique character of the watch.

Movement

Mechanical automatic, ETA 2892-2 calibre

Functions

Hours, minutes, seconds, date, dual time, power-reserve indicator

Case

Steel, 45 mm Ceramic bezel with raised engraved hour-markers Anti-reflective sapphire crystal Circular-grained and engraved caseback Water-resistant to 100 metres (10 bar/330 ft)

Dial

Black Luminescent hands and hour-markers Dual time at 12 o’clock Power-reserve indicator at 6 o’clock Date window at 3 o’clock

Bracelet/strap

Leather with personalised buckle